Days 143-146, December 21-25, 2010
Meriwether Lewis Campground, Natchez Trace, TN--free
Gas $2.99/gallon
64 miles today
Merry Christmas! As I sit here mid-afternoon on Christmas Day, I can look out the camper window and see little flakes of snow flitting through the air. We are having a white Christmas here in Tennessee but not enough to scare us into going farther south quite yet. I am toasty in the camper but poor Jake is outside fighting with the generator that runs for a while and then dies. It’s done this at least 20 times so far and Jake’s patience is nearing the end, but it’s a project for him to work on. If he can figure out how to keep the generator running we will have TV and watch Christmas specials tonight. If not we will read.
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| Mom's cat Butchie and a curious Belle! |
Leaving Marietta was both a sad and happy time. It is always sad to say goodbye to family but we also wanted to get back into our adventures. We were spoiled at my sister’s house with showers and laundry any time we needed it and I enjoyed cooking in a “real” kitchen again, but it was time to get back into the swing of things and remember how to take care of ourselves on the road. We decided that we wanted to go back north and take the rest of the Natchez Trace south from Nashville down to were we left it outside of the town of Natchez.
We headed north up Georgia Interstate 75 to a little side road that took us past idyllic country scenes until we connected onto scenic Hwy 76 that would take us up to the Blue Ridge Mountains. A ways up the road we stopped in the town of Blue Ridge and got the lie of the land from the locals. They directed us to FR 64 saying that there was lots of camping up in the mountains. We did find a little campground by Dyer Gap, but before we got there were sidetracked by a little cemetery along side the road. It was a bit spooky. The cemetery is rustic and small with a little chapel area filled with scarred pews and a rough looking pulpit. There were cement tables off to the side of the cemetery that we hope are used to hold food for when the local mountain people hold services there.


At the campground we watched the temperature steadily drop while standing around the fire (we have a little temperature gauge with us) and finally the cold scared me into the camper. Jake joined me shortly and we dined by candlelight on soup and crackers for dinner. Yes, you can be romantic even when camping.


The next morning we headed out of the mountains on roads covered with ice crystals and flanked by trees that were laden with ice. The road was not slippery, though, so we able to enjoy the quiet beauty of being in the mountains. Jake and I thought back to the last time we were on back roads and figured that it was about mid-November when we just started exploring Arkansas. It was about time we got back to nature! Once we got back to civilization, we decided to head toward a campground in northwest Georgia called the James “Sloppy” Floyd State Park. Along the way we stopped for a bite to eat in Chatsworth at The Village Cafeteria, a restaurant that the propane guy said we should go to for good southern cooking at a fair price. Jake had hamburger steak with mashed potatoes and green beans, I had creamed chicken over stuffing with mashed potatoes and green beans; the grand total for the meal was $13.

Well, we got to Sloppy’s and were appalled that the price was $27. It was still early so we decided to head on to Alabama and check out DeSoto State Park. When we got there we were even more appalled that the price to camp was $32! So on we went to Fort Payne to stay in the Wal-mart campground (parking lot). It was a no-go. For the first time on the trip there was a “No overnight parking” sign in the Wal-mart parking lot. Strike 3. Thankfully it was still early enough for us to suck it up and head up the road to Scottsboro where we were able to stay at the Wal-mart. It was a super busy Wal-mart, what with it being the eve of Christmas Eve, but we fired up the generator and watched some bad movies and went to bed.
Yesterday we continued our trek north out of Huntsville to the beginning of the Natchez Trace, stopping to get an oil change along the way. It is not an easy thing to get the oil changed in our Tundra as the satellite dome makes us almost 12’ tall so there is no way that the truck can go on a lift. Luckily we were able to find a place that could take us but only with about 2” to spare. We backed out of the bay since we knew that the rig fit that way but were dubious about pulling straight through!
Since it was Christmas Eve, Jake and I decided to treat ourselves to a night in a hotel. For my birthday this year a bunch of my co-workers had given me a gift card to a Marriott so we figured that Christmas Eve was the perfect time to use such a generous gift. Tom, the concierge, was kind enough to take the price from $129 to $99 and even “hooked us up” with a room with a king-sized bed on the top floor “with a view of the ocean”. Thank you, Tom!
We showered and headed to the bar to keep the bartender company…there was absolutely no one else in the place, not even in the restaurant. Drinks were not cheap but the conversation was fun and the mood merry. Jake even got to enjoy some high-end sipping Jack Daniels since after 4 beers they didn’t have any more cold Budweiser. Eventually some other folks showed up so we had a little Christmas Eve party with new friends at the Marriott. Jake and I had intended to have dinner in the hotel’s restaurant but we found the prices too steep and the menu very limited, so we left the min-party and ordered Domino’s pizza to eat in bed.

Today we awoke to a white Christmas and just lazed around in bed watching Horton Hears a Who and relishing the feather bed, down comforter, and numerous fluffy pillows. Our bed in the camper is comfortable, but it doesn’t come close to the decadence of a Marriott king-size bed. We finally roused ourselves and headed toward the Trace, stopping at a Shonney’s Restaurant for a quick bite to eat. We didn’t know it until we got there that the restaurant was doing a holiday buffet all day, so instead of eggs and bacon we had a complete turkey dinner with all the fixin’s and a salad bar for our Christmas breakfast. It was perfect!

The Natchez Trace has been occupying us the rest of today. It has been a beautiful drive through the countryside, with numerous stops to observe historical sites. We have seen waterfalls, a tobacco barn, hiked on the Old Trace, drove on the Old Trace, and now are at the site of Merriwether Lewis’s death and grave. As the story goes, he had a nervous breakdown because of his job as governor of the upper Louisiana Territory shortly before arriving at the Trace. On the Trace, he stopped at a cabin owned by Mrs. Robert Grinder and sustained 2 gunshot wounds while there. There is speculation that he may have committed suicide, but there are equal thoughts that he may have been robbed and murdered. The truth lies buried with him.




Surprisingly the campground tonight is free and the bathrooms warm and clean. Even though the generator is cantankerous and doesn’t want to run in the cold weather, we are happy that we are staying here as the area is so beautiful in the snow and it is so peaceful. Time to go join Jake by the fire and enjoy the snow. I am happy that I have a hand-knit scarf, thanks to Jamie in Chattanooga; I am getting full use out of it today! Tomorrow, southward to warmer weather.
Jakeism: MERRY CHRISTMAS, To you my faithful followers. I would be remiss if I didn’t let you both know that I would rate this as one of the top 3 Christmases I have ever had. I couldn’t help but think about Meriwether Lewis whose grave is only about 200 yards away while I was standing out by the fire. He accomplished such great things in his life yet had know idea that when he stopped for the night at a rest house that he would never see the light of day again. What must have it been like for him and the others like him on this road. I looked out across the landscape and wondered.